A Toronto Primer

migod@cs.cornell.edu
Last major update: April 21, 1997

Best route to Toronto from Ithaca:

Route 96 or 89 up to the NY interstate (go up the west side of Lake Cayuga). NY throughway west all the way to the end of the unified toll section (exit 50, just east of Buffalo). There are three bridges to Canada. I always take the northernmost bridge (it's fastest) at Lewiston, NY which gets you into Queenston, Ontario.

To get to Lewiston from the exit 50 of the NY Throughway, take the right exit just after the toll booths. Go north through Grand Island (go over two bridges) to Lewiston on the main highway. Go over the bridge to Canada across the Niagara River and you will then be on the main highway to Toronto (another 80 minutes on a good day). Simple! The whole trip will take about 5 hours, ignoring traffic.

Things to do in the city

• "Now" and "Eye" are free weekly newspapers that detail what's happening in the city. They should be easy to find in the city.
• Drinking age is 19; it's pretty strictly enforced.
• As of a few months ago, it is illegal to smoke in restaurants in Toronto, period.
• Tip 15% as you would here.
• Taxes are generally not included in prices and are usually 15% in total. Don't be shocked when the $10 CD actually costs $11.50.
• Try to exchange money at a bank. Just about anyone will accept US money, but you might not get a good exchange at the corner store. Try to get to a bank or trust company (some are open on Saturday) for the best rates. No matter which you currency you pay in, you will get your change in Canadian.
• The money system is the same as the US. Coins are the same size and denomination. Canada no longer has one dollar bills, 'tho. We use $1 and $2 coins instead.
• Your US Visa/Mastercard etc works fine and you'll probably get a reasonable exchange rate (I always use credit cards for large cross border purchases). Almost no one takes Discover or Diners Club, 'tho.
• Canada uses the metric system, but everyone understands the old Imperial system too. 100 km/h is 62.1 mile per hour (speed limit on the major highways).
• Downtown Toronto is *very* safe day or night. But don't be stupid.
• The public transit (called the TTC) is excellent and very safe too. The one-way cash fare is much more than (half of) buying two tokens/tickets. Subway stations will sell you any number of tokens, but buses and streetcars are exact fare (or ticket/token) only. Some corner stores will also sell tickets/tokens. Call 393-INFO for help/information. The TTC uses a single fare system (pay once, use as many subways/streetcars/buses as you like across the whole city -- get a transfer when you pay).
• Parking downtown can be very expensive!
• The two most important streets are Yonge (pronounced "young") and Bloor (rhymes with "lure"). Yonge is the north/south dividing line of the city; it starts at the lake and continues north for several hundred miles (Guiness says it's the longest normal street in the world).

• Hockey Hall of Fame -- *The* hockey hall of fame for the NHL (the one in Minnesota is only for US players/teams). Recently redone and well worth a visit if you are at all interested. At the northwest corner of Yonge and Front inside the BCE place building. Subway: King (walk south on Yonge) or Union (Walk east along Front).
• Eaton Centre -- The big downtown mall. Most tourists seems to spend a little time here at least. It's also very close to other downtown attractions and shopping (book, record, clothing). Over 300 stores, including the 10 story Eaton's dept store. Subway: Dundas or Queen.
• Queen Street -- From the bottom of the Eaton's Centre (Queen subway station), walk west along Queen. The funny space-age building with the flying saucer is City hall (you simply must see it). The fountain is a free skating rink in the winter, and the square is where people gather for New Years, and other festivals. Continue along Queen past University Ave (big wide road). You are now in the fabulously funky part of town (wear black and affect artsy attitudes). Many good restaurants here, plus art galleries, bars, second hand book and record stores and other hip stuff. Bakka, the science fiction bookstore is also here. Starts to peter out at Spadina Ave. You might want to walk up a major block to Dundas and walk back through Chinatown. Again, well worth the time if just to stroll.
• University of Toronto -- Nice big downtown campus. Great old buildings. The computer science dept is in the Sanford Fleming building (he invented standardized timezones). Try to get someone to show you around if you are interested.
• Yorkville -- Many tourists like Yorkville, but the locals tend to snub it. In the 1960s, this was Counter-Culture Capital where Joni Mitchel and Neil Young cut their musical teeth. In the 1970s, it was redeveloped into expensive boutiques and overpriced restaurants. Subway: Bay (walk a bit north and ask)
• The Annex -- Neat funky downtown residential neighbourhood. Start at the Royal Ontario Museum (Subway: St George) and walk west along Bloor. The people who live here are real downtowners (not trendy artists like near Queen). It has a real atmosphere. Bloor is a nice and interesting walk with funky stores, restaurants, etc. Great place for sidewalk cafe people watching -- this is the real Toronto, folks. It becomes suddenly tacky (but again, safe) at Honest Ed's, a giant Kmart-type store with 1950s Las Vegas flashing-lights on the marquee -- Ed Mirvisch is a great guy tho. He owns the Old Vic theatre in London and is responsible for a large part of the significant theatre scene in Toronto.
• Harbourfront -- Phone TTC for transit details. Has great stuff happening in the warm weather. Lots of overpriced stores and restaurants. Major spot for tourists; locals go for the free jazz and pack a lunch.
• Toronto Islands -- Beautiful spot for picnics, lazy days, long walks, bicycle rides (can rent bikes there; cars are illegal on the island). But, alas, mostly a warm weather place. Call TTC for details (next door to Harbourfront).
• Skydome -- Where the Blue Jays play. Phone TTC for transit details.
• CN tower -- Hard to miss; right next to Skydome. Always called "the CN tower" and never "the Canadian National Tower". Well, it's a big tower (1815 feet, I believe). Nice views on a clear day.
• Ontario Place -- Great open space to take the kids. Concerts, kids play area, home of the first Imax cinema. etc etc. Warm weather only.

The Zoo:

Huge and excellent. You won't see it all in one day and you will wear out a pair of shoes in trying. Northeast end of the city. If you drive then carpool, as parking is expensive. Or take the bus from the Sheppard subway

Ontario Science Centre:

Very hands-on science museum. I spent many Saturdays here as a child. (It's also just across the street from the big IBM Toronto lab.) At the corner of Don Mills and Eglinton. Drive or take a bus (call TTC for information).

Bookstores:

World's Biggest Bookstore (on Edward just above the Eaton's Centre). Many other good bookstores scattered around the city (e.g. Book City in the Annex; Lichtman's on Yonge just below the Eaton's Centre).

Record stores:

If you visit only one, make it Sam the Record Man (a Toronto institution). Big, cheap, and great selection in all music categories. On Yonge Street a couple of block north of the Eaton's Centre.

Just south of Sam's is a big HMV. Further south on Yonge at the extreme south of the Eaton's Centre is a big Tower Records. Plus there are other stores in the area en route.

Dim Sum (Chinese brunch)

If you are looking for something to do for lunch, try Dim Sum (only at lunch). The good places I know are on Dundas east of Spadina. Try the International on the south side of Dundas on the second floor. Or just ask someone.

Coming Soon

• Royal Ontario Museum
• Art Gallery of Ontario
• Stratford/Shaw Festivals
• Theatre scene
• Some of my favourite restaurants

Toronto On-line

• Toronto Life Magazine, who have an excellent (and independent) restaurant guide
• Eye magazine online
• Now magazine online, including their restaurant guide
• Virtual Toronto
• Yahoo Canada page for Toronto
• City of Toronto homepage
• The Toronto Star What's On pages