Second rope ----------- Originally looked at 7mm cord vs 7.5mm twin ropes: Mammut 7.5mm twin 38 g/m (from MEC catalogue) PMI Accessory Cord, 7mm 29.5g/m (1997 PMI catalogue) PMI HD Accessory Cord, 7mm 37.3g/m (1997 PMI catalogue; and now called Rescue Accessory cord according to http://www.caves.org/imo/rope.htm) BlueWater Accessory Cord, 7mm 37 g/m (http://spelean.com.au/BW/TM/BWtechcrd.html) "7mm accessory cord" 41 g/m (http://www.karstsports.com/7mmaccor.html) So it seems that one has to be careful to get a light 7mm cord to beat the weight of the Mammut twin rope! But, now decide to take 6mm instead so no choice. Food and fuel ------------- Ade writes: > from The Denali Climbing Guide, R.J Secor... > > "A party should carry a maximum of 25 days food and fuel on the Washburn > Route... As a rough guide a figure of 2 lbs of food per person per day > and 0.25 quarts of fuel per person per day... A party of four bound for > the Washburn Route 200 lbs of food and 6 gallons of fuel should be > plenty." > > So that would give us 100 lbs of fuel and 3 gals (21 lbs of fuel), plus > say 25lbs of gear each. That gives us a comfy 85lbs each. Ordered 4Gal from TAT First Aid Kits -------------- > * I think we need two first aid kits, one for the rib/cassin, and > another one or additional bits for the remainder of the time. yes. > * What do you want to do about a radio? Simeon: I will look into it. Ade: could rent from TAT, ($60 + $100deposit) Simeon: ordered one for $100+$20 for better antenna (25Mar02) > * You're doing the first aid kit right? What's Betadine? Can you get > any Diamox? Can you get some better pain killers (I think Jim has a friendly > Dr.)? Simeon: okay, will talk to Jim again. I meant to pick up stuff from Peru when I was at his place last week but I forgot. > * Items in blue are hill gear, everything else is just shit we'll be > dragging around. I've not finished this yet. Eventually I'd like to get an > idea of the total weight for the route. Did you see that account I sent you > (PDF file) with the guy's food list, a few Power Bars basically! Simeon: Sadly, I think we need more food than that. I get scared at the idea of getting holed up for a few days. > * How many days do we think it's going to take to do the W. Rib or the > Cassin? We need this to figure out food etc. I guess that at this stage we should think about food in days and plan for the possibility of quite a few hill-days. Cassin should be about 14k->base or airstrip->base - 1 day up - 3/4 days down - ~2 days (should get to cache in <1 day, weather permitting) Simeon: Presumably we'll also have things like an excursion up higher from the 14k camp on the butt. Ade: I think we can do these as day trips from 14k, climb high sleep low. > * What sort of tent do you have? Simeon: Veyr old quasar, not sure we'd want to take it. Ade: I have a Bibler, I figure we'll take this, and a Hyperspace, very big, very nice, very heavy. Usually I use this as a BC tent but I don't want to carry it everywhere. I also have a Quasar which is getting a bit crispy. Ade: looking into new fly > * You have an altimeter right? Simeon: Yes, in my watch. Simeon: got two spare betteries for altimeter/watch (23Mar02) > * I've marked a couple of items with a '?' as they seem a bit OOT. It > seems people drag/carry about 120lbs of gear up the West Butt. I dragged ten > days food and technical gear 20+ miles on the flat and it utterly sucked. > I'm trying to figure out how to minimise this. I agree ditching GPS, I think I'll plan to take VBL socks and perhaps one water bottle insulator. > * I have an OK monocular, I think this will do instead of binoculars. > Less weight anyway. I have binoculars which I guess we'll take to the glacier but not up the mountain. > Here's some other overboots: > http://www.orgear.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi?action=serve > /brooks_ranger.html> &item=/catalog/footwear/brooks_ranger.html Boots and liners Raichle Thermoflex Liners recommended at http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Boots/Boot%20Modification%204.htm (thicker than normal liners) Intuition Liners http://www.startingate.net/liners_nofrb.htm Lucie brownie recipe -------------------- "The brownies are easy: Buy Girardelli double chocolate mix. Replace all water with liquor of your choice. I recommend rum, creme de cocoa, or Brandy. Lately I've been cooking them in a glass pan, and I submerge it in another pan full of water (double boiler style) so that the edges don't dry out. Then you have to let them sit for a while before you cut them up. I recommend covering them while they cool so they don't dry. Then wrap them individually for tasty tent treats!" Things we are not taking ------------------------ GPS - has weight, needs batteries, one more thing to go wrong. Decided that likely usefulness is just now worth it. Probe poles - will use ski/hiking pole with basket removed Avalanche transcievers - just two people, one at each end of a rope. Notes to take with us --------------------- Denali Overland: Driver's Mobile: (907) 441 3490 Main Number: (907) 733-2384 / (800) 651 5221 TAT: Main Number: (907) 733-2218 / (800) 533-2219 NPS: Main Number: (907) 733-2231 Alaska Airlines: Main Number: 1-800-252-7522